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Exhibition List

Featuring watches from the IDA Collection & the Vacheron Constantin and Charles Frodsham & Co. Collections

As a complement to Heartbeat of the City, the installation will also feature twenty-four specially selected watches, chosen to show how time can be used to measure, fix and contextualize the history of human achievements. Indeed, time and timekeeping have been at the center of most forms of human endeavor since the invention of the portable clock.

John Vanderwalker and team in the Tektite capsule

John Vanderwalker and team in the Tektite capsule

John Vanderwalker wearing prototype Certina dive watch

John Vanderwalker wearing prototype Certina dive watch

Vice-President Agnew presents Presidential citation to John Vanderwalker and the Tektite team

Vice-President Agnew presents Presidential citation to John Vanderwalker and the Tektite team


1. Sterling silver half-hunter Swiss wristwatch in special semi-hermetic case presented to Captain Sir John W. Alcock on 17 July 1919 by his home City of Manchester.  Just one month earlier, Alcock, together with his co-pilot Lieutenant Sir Arthur W. Brown, accomplished one of the most important, memorable and daring aviation achievements of the 20th century:  a non-stop flight across the Atlantic Ocean.  Nearly a decade before Lindbergh accomplished the same feat solo, Alcock and Brown completed the crossing by flying from St. John's, Newfoundland to Clifden, Connemara, County Galway, Ireland – almost double the length of Lindbergh’s route – over the course of 72 hours.  They were knighted at Windsor Castle by King George V the following day.  All but forgotten now, Alcock’s achievement was front page news in virtually every newspaper in the world.  Less than a year later, Alcock perished in a plane crash.  The watch was obtained from the estate of John William Dunne who, consulting with the Wright Brothers, produced one of the very first practical airplane designs.  Dunne (the son of General Sir John Dunne, ADC to Queen Victoria) like Alcock, was a monumentally important aviation innovator whose contributions to early flight are little-remembered today.

2. Rolex Unicorn wristwatch presented by aviation pioneer Charles Ulm, “the Lindbergh of the Pacific,” who vanished without a trace near Hawaii in 1934. 1930's Rolex Unicorn 9k rose gold watch with original “sunburst” champagne dial with luminous numbers. 15j unadjusted, undecorated lever escapement movement signed Rolex. Ulm joined the Australian expeditionary force (AIF) in September 1914 at the age of 15. He fought and was wounded at Gallipoli in 1915 and on the Western Front in 1918. After the war, he purchased a surplus Avro X aircraft from Australian National Airways and re-named it “Faith in Australia.” In this aircraft, Ulm flew from England to Australia in 1933 in 6 days, 17 hours and 56 minutes—a new speed record. In 1934, once again flying Faith in Australia, Ulm carried the first official airmail from New Zealand to Australia. That same year, Ulm founded Great Pacific Airways, intending to operate a San Francisco-Sydney air service.  Unfortunately, it was not meant to be. In December 1934, while piloting a heavily modified Envoy aircraft, Ulm and his flight crew disappeared over Hawaii in heavy weather. Despite an immediate search by more than 20 US Navy vessels, no trace of Ulm, his companions or his aircraft were ever found. The inscription on this watch “To A.B. from CTP Ulm Faith in Australia,” likely refers to Austin Byrne, Ulm’s friend, supporter and, later, biographer.

Image by Matthew Smith

Image by Matthew Smith

3. Special Edition Universal Geneve Polarouter Wristwatch. Stainless-steel, screw-back, anti-magnetic wristwatch, model 20217-6, fitted with Universal Genève caliber 138SS bumper automatic 17j movement. 36mm overall in diameter. Produced in 1954, the Polarouter (later Polerouter) was the first wristwatch styled by legendary industrial designer Gerald Genta. Created to commemorate SAS’s (Scandinavian Airlines Systems) first over-the-pole flights from Copenhagen to Los Angeles, Universal Genève produced a small number of these special edition watches, with the SAS logo on the dial, that were distributed to the pilots and crew on the first flights—as well as a number of dignitaries (including three prime ministers) who came along as passengers. Using the polar route as a shortcut on the Copenhagen-Los Angeles run cut the flight time from 36 to 22 hours. However, flying over the North Pole posed serious challenges.  For example, SAS had to develop an entirely new navigational system to compensate for the extreme magnetic fields found near the pole. The other issue was basic timekeeping—the magnetic fields also wreaked havoc with mechanical clocks, including the wristwatches worn by the pilots and crew. To address the latter issue, Universal Genève, which had a long history of producing specialist, anti-magnetic timepieces, created the Polarouter. In time, Universal Genève became the sole supplier of chronometer and anti-magnetic watches to SAS. The Polarouter, along with the Rolex Milgauss and Omega Railmaster, was one of a number of specially designed wristwatches that were produced in the mid-1950s expressly to address problems created by magnetic fields in a number of settings. Over time, advances in materials science made it much easier (and less expensive) to produce effective antimagnetic watches.

Image by Matthew Smith

Image by Matthew Smith

4. Vacheron Constantin early aviation thigh-mounted flight navigation clock. Steel-cased, 17j chronometer grade, lever escapement pocket watch, 44mm diameter, 1890. Per Vacheron factory records, the watch was thereafter delivered in 1903 to retail jeweler J.C. Herkner in Grand Rapids, Michigan (via Vacheron’s agent in New York City). The Herkner retail signature is decoratively engraved on the movement. Not later than 1911 (on the basis of its military case engravings), the watch had acquired the present crude steel outer casing that enabled it to be worn on the wrist (over a heavy flight jacket) or on the thigh, and delivered to the Royal Aircraft Establishment in Farnborough, UK. The Wright Brothers, who were known to shop for luxury goods in Grand Rapids, and were acquainted with Herkner (a prominent Civil War veteran and civic leader), traveled multiple times to the Royal Aircraft Establishment (RAE) between 1907 and 1911, and presented officials there with various undocumented gifts as the Wright Brothers sought to sell their aircraft designs to the UK government. The threads of the apparently home-made outer casing show a pitch and profile used only in the United States. The Wright Brothers were skilled machinists who produced a wide range of threaded metal objects in their machine shop in Dayton, Ohio. There is no evidence that any other early American aviation pioneers from the Grand Rapids area visited the RAE between 1903 (when Herkner received the watch) and 1911 (by which time it had become the property of the RAE). During the early years of aviation, cockpit instrumentation was essentially non-existent. To facilitate hands-free consultation of a pilot’s most crucial piece of air-navigation gear – a timepiece – watches were sometimes fitted with long straps and worn on the upper thigh.

5. G. Davenport Mark IVa Royal Flying Corps cockpit watch, c. 1912, 15 jewel lever escapement movement in nickel-silver case, mark W/D for “War Department” in same manner as Vacheron pilot watch, item #4 above.  Mark IV.A (1914) and Mark V (1916) pocket watches were standard issue.  Intended primarily for use inside aircraft, these watches were specifically designed to fit into the instrument panel of early airplanes.  Fitted with a long shank winding stem that extended beyond the instrument panel, these watches could be set and wound without being removed from the panel housing.

6. Jaeger column wheel chronograph watch in stainless steel, c. 1935, case #50737, presented to famed aircraft engine designer Donald Chapman in 1940 – and worn by him for many years thereafter -- by Sir Roy Fedden.  Chapman worked for the Bristol Aeroplane Company and later Rolls-Royce from 1935 to 1985, a career that included designing and testing engines for aircraft as varied WW2 fighter/bombers and Concorde.  Sir Alfred Hubert Roy Fedden was Bristol’s chief engineer, responsible for many of the most important aircraft engine designs of WW2.  The watch was obtained from Chapman’s grandson, Matthew Baker.

7. IWC Ingenieur wristwatch, reference 666, in stainless steel with highly unusual full Arabic dial, c.1965, formerly the property of aviation pioneer Alan S. Butler.  The Ingenieur model was specially designed for technical applications, including aviation, where a high degree of resistance to the effects of magnetic fields is required.  Alan Samuel Butler was the first private airplane owner/pilot in England and was Chairman of the famed De Havilland Aircraft Company from 1923 to 1950.  At the time of Butler’s retirement from De Havilland, the company employed 20,000 people and was building the world's first commercial jet airliner, the Comet.  After finishing flight school during WW1, Butler graduated from Sandhurst and was commissioned into the Coldstream Guards.  After the war, he partnered with Geoffrey de Havilland and went on to guide the firm through the formative years of commercial aviation.  Butler was also a skilled yachtsman, completing many transatlantic crossings in his ketch, Sylvia.

8. Vacheron Constantin deck watch used aboard the HMS Belfast according to observatory maintenance records.  Gilt-finished lever-escapement movement, 21 jewels, large Guillaume balance with gold poising screws, micrometer regulator, silver cuvette engraved “Certificat de 1re Classe l'Observatoire Astronomique de Geneve,” silvered matte dial, Arabic numerals, blued steel spade hands, subsidiary seconds, hallmarked (Birmingham) silver case.  Case, cuvette, dial and movement are all signed.  60mm in diameter.  HMS Belfast is a Town-class light cruiser that was built for the Royal Navy.  She is now permanently moored as a museum ship on the River Thames in London and is operated by the Imperial War Museum.  HMS Belfast is widely regarded as the most significant surviving ship in the British fleet, having fired some of the first shots during D-Day.  This watch, a witness to some of the most significant historical events of the 20th century – events that depended heavily on the process coordination of timing among the military units involved – demonstrates the centrality of timekeeping to diverse forms of human endeavor.

9. Dent Explorers Watch as used by the Royal Geographic Society. A fine and rare silver, open-face pocket watch. The case is signed “Dent, Watchmaker to the Queen, 33 Cockspur Street, Charring Cross, London.” Gilt-frosted three-quarter plate fully-jeweled movement, bimetallic balance, diamond capstones, silver cuvette, white enamel dial, Roman numerals, outer railway minute divisions, subsidiary seconds, large circular plain case, and hinged back. The case is numbered and stamped with the case-maker's mark. Dial and movement also signed and numbered. Such water-resistant "Explorers" watches were frequently commissioned by The Royal Geographic Society for use on expeditions to places where severe climate conditions might be expected. The sealed cases protected the movement against the incursion of dust and moisture. Its design is similar to the silver Longines underwater watch described below.

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10. Sterling silver Longines “trench” watch, 12.68ZN movement, c.1915, presented to A.E. Forman, Chief Public Works Engineer, British Columbia, July 11, 1920.  Forman oversaw the construction of highways and bridges throughout Canada, serving in various senior public engineering roles in several provinces.  Perhaps most notably, he was responsible, in 1920, for the transition in Canada from UK-style left-hand traffic rules to US-style right hand traffic rules.  After Forman enacted this change in British Columbia, all other English-speaking provinces followed BC’s lead in the following 2-3 years (the French speaking areas of Canada had always enforced right hand traffic rules).  Insurance value = £2000

11. WW1 Hamilton Torpedo Boat Watch. Open-face pocket watch with extremely high grade 21j, pin-set, fully-capped lever escapement movement, with striped-pattern nickel damascene decoration, diamond cap-stones, Guillaume bimetallic balance and 56-hour power reserve. The watch is housed in a massive 69mm sterling silver Crescent Watch Co. case with silvered enamel double-sunk dial. The total weight of the assembled watch is over a half-pound. The total production run of this high-grade chronometer was a mere 970 units of which only a handful survive to this day. The first 500, like the present watch, were paired with the massive sterling silver CWC cases, while the final 470 watches were presented as boxed chronometers mounted in gimbaled chrome tubs within bespoke mahogany boxes. The engraving on the back of this example indicates that it was procured by the Emergency Fleet Corporation, established by the United States Shipping Board, at the outbreak of WW1. The USSB was set up to help expedite the expansion of the US fleet to protect shipping lanes during the war. In 1913, the US had a much smaller fleet than many of the principal European powers and the USSB was intended, through the procurement of ships and associated material, to close that gap as quickly as possible. And so it was that watches intended for civilian use were pressed into military service.

Image by Matthew Smith

Image by Matthew Smith

12. Vacheron Constantin minute-repeater “bull’s eye” pocket watch commissioned by Napoleon VI. 18K gold hunter case pocket watch with simple high-fired white enamel Roman numeral dial, 23j lever escapement movement with sub-seconds. The watch is elegant, understated and exquisitely finished. During the Second World War, Prince Louis wrote to the French prime minister offering to serve in the French Army, but was refused. Instead, he joined the French Foreign Legion, seeing significant action in North Africa. After the Vichy government was declared, he joined the French Resistance—specifically, the legendary Charles Martel Brigade—and was decorated for bravery. After the war, he lived mostly in Switzerland until his official banishment as a member of France’s former royal dynasty was lifted in 1950. Thereafter he returned to his native country where he lived out his days as a successful businessman and socialite. He was succeeded in the Napoleonic dynasty by his grandson, Prince Jean-Christophe Napoléon.

13. Patek Philippe pocket watch attributed to Countess Marie Larisch that recalls her involvement in secret and scandalous events that helped precipitate World War I.  An early 18K gold half-hunter case keyless lever escapement pocket watch signed Patek, Philippe & Co., Geneva, manufactured in 1879 and lavishly engraved with Larisch’s initials and coronet – possibly a 21st birthday present from her aunt, the Empress, based on information in the Patek archive records.  The watch is fitted with a Cal. 15 gilt-finished jeweled lever movement with wolf's tooth winding, gold cuvette, white enamel dial, Roman numerals, subsidiary seconds, engine-turned case, raised Roman numeral chapters to the front lid surrounding the aperture, cuvette signed, 30mm diameter. The Mayerling incident concerns events surrounding the alleged murder–suicide on 30 January 1889 of Elisabeth’s son, Crown Prince Rudolf, heir to the Austro-Hungarian throne, and his lover, Baroness Mary Vetsera. Countess Marie, a close confidante of the Empress, served as the go-between for Rudolf and Mary, facilitating their affair.  The death of the Crown Prince interrupted the direct line of the Habsburg dynasty. As Rudolf had no son, the line of succession passed to Franz Joseph's brother, Archduke Karl Ludwig, and his eldest son, Archduke Franz Ferdinand. This destabilization impeded the growing reconciliation between the Austrian and Hungarian factions of the empire. This fissure ultimately led to the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sophie by Gavrilo Princip, a Yugoslav nationalist, at Sarajevo in June 1914, and the July Crisis that led to the start of the First World War. This watch provides a fascinating link to these momentous events.

Image by Matthew Smith

Image by Matthew Smith

14. Vacheron Chossat chiming pocket watch from a little-known chapter in Vacheron’s history. 18K yellow gold quarter repeating (15 minutes intervals) pocket watch with musical chimes, 42mm diameter, circa 1816. Abraham Vacheron took a partner in 1786, Barthélémy Girod, and the company thereafter became Vacheron Girod. When Girod retired in 1816, Charles-François Chossat stepped briefly into his shoes. However, by 1819, Chossat had retired as well—replaced by François Constantin, whose name the firm still bears more than 200 years later. Consequently, the dial signature here—Vacheron Chossat—is quite uncommon. This particular watch features musical chimes, a Vacheron specialty. It is quite an early example, produced just ten years after Vacheron produced its first musical chiming watch in 1806. The repeating mechanism—which allows the approximate time to be heard—was no mere technical flourish. At a time when convenient sources of artificial lighting did not exist, people often had to rely on senses other than vision.

Image by Matthew Smith

Image by Matthew Smith

15. Vacheron Constantin 18K gold pocket watch with decoration by legendary enamel artist, Carlo Poluzzi. Yellow gold cased 17j lever escapement pocket watch with exquisitely enameled case by a true master of the craft. Indeed, Carlo Poluzzi is widely considered to be one of the greatest enamel artist of the 20th century. This watch bears Poluzzi’s recreation of Adrien Brouwer’s masterpiece, Le Fumeur of 1637. Brouwer was a significant figure in the field of so-called “genre” painting, often depicting the lower classes engaged in stereotypical pursuits: drinking, gambling, smoking, dancing, fighting, etc. His portraits—typically either just the face or the head & shoulders, were filled with extraordinary detail, making them a particularly difficult subject matter for duplication in enamel. Poluzzi, however, has done an admirable job here, producing an interpretation of Brouwer’s painting that preserves much of the wonderful character of the 17th century original.

Image by Matthew Smith

Image by Matthew Smith

16.  Vacheron Constantin combined pocket watch and pomander. 18K red and yellow gold figurative pomander with captive 15j lever escapement pocket watch attached, circa 1880. A pomander is a perforated container of aromatic substances, including perfumes, medicinal herbs and fragrant spices, carried to disguise unpleasant environmental odors and protect (or so it was thought) against airborne diseases. A classic relic of the Victorian era—the “Age of Odor” as it is sometimes called—a pomander was an essential accoutrement for any well-appointed lady who ventured outside in the mid to late 1800s. Industrial smells from unregulated factories and agricultural enterprises, sewer gasses, and the odor of animal waste combined to give London and other large cities in the UK a truly noxious aroma. At that time, many diseases, including cholera, were thought to spread by means of this “miasma.” The pomander became an important accessory as the environmental smells were often so strong they could literally cause people to pass out. The onset of health and zoning regulations by 1900 significantly alleviated many of these problems.

17. Vacheron Constantin cloisonné pocket watch specially produced for the Milan International Exhibition of 1906.  18K yellow gold, 17j lever escapement movement.  The enamel work, exquisitely hand-applied, has been executed in the art nouveau style and includes interlocking leaves and vines in vibrant tones.  This was conceived as a showpiece to highlight Vacheron’s extraordinary skill in cloisonné work – a tradition that continues to this day.  The watch was presented by Vacheron at the Milan International fair, L'Esposizione Internazionale del Sempione, held in 1906.  Designed to highlight trades and crafts, the fair covered more than two hundred and fifty acres and was attended by more than four million people.

18. Certina DS2 underwater wristwatch worn by scientist and record-setting undersea explorer John Vanderwalker during the Tektite mission.  Stainless steel diving watch in oversized tonneau-shaped case with elapsed time bezel rated to a depth of 3,300ft/1000m.  Circa 1969, fitted with caliber 25-651 27j automatic movement.  Overall diameter 44.5mm.  Hands and indices painted with luminous material for underwater legibility.  Between 28 January and 12 February 1969, a detachment of US Navy divers from Amphibious Construction Battalion 2, augmented by an additional 17 Seabee divers from the US Navy Atlantic and Pacific fleets, installed the Tektite habitat in Great Lameshur Bay in the U. S. Virgin Islands.  On 15 February 1969, four U.S. Department of Interior scientists – Ed Clifton, Conrad Mahnken, Richard Waller and John VanDerwalker – descended to the ocean floor to begin the ambitious diving project dubbed "Tektite I.”  By March 18, 1969, the four aquanauts had established a new world's record for saturation diving by a single team.  On April 15, 1969, the aquanaut team returned to the surface with over 58 days of marine scientific studies.  More than 19 hours of decompression time were needed to accommodate the scientists' return to the surface.  This watch, supplied as a prototype to the Tektite team, was worn by Vanderwalker during the Tektite mission – as can be seen in the previously unpublished mission photographs with which the watch is presented.

Image by Matthew Smith

Image by Matthew Smith

19. Omega Speedmaster Wristwatch owned and worn by celebrated Australian adventurer Denis Bartell OAM during his solo walk across the Simpson Desert. Stainless steel Omega wristwatch reference #145.022-69ST fitted with manual winding 17j chronograph caliber 861 movement. Overall 42 mm diameter.   The Omega reference 145.022-69 is the last “Pre-Moon” iteration as it was designed before the first moon landing in July 1969, but only launched in December 1969 and in production until around 1971. The first models were produced with the instantly recognizable Hippocampus logo and brand name on the back, while subsequent versions made reference to the moon landing. The Simpson Desert is a large area of dry, red sandy plain and dunes in South Australia and Queensland. It is the fourth-largest Australian desert, with an area of 70,000 square miles. In 1984, using this watch for navigational purposes, Dennis Bartel became the first non-aboriginal man to walk solo and unsupported across the Simpson Desert – a total of 390 km in 24 days. Bartell relied on a network of old Aboriginal wells for water. Bartell’s career as a desert explorer is chronicled in numerous books and documentaries including the 1985 film Desert Walker. More strongly associated with space travel—the Omega Speedmaster was worn by the astronauts of NASA’s Apollo XI, Bartell’s Speedmaster was apparently equally well-suited to the rigors of the Australian desert.

WATCH THE DESERT WALKER HERE

Image by Matthew Smith

Image by Matthew Smith

20. Smiths wristwatch belonging to famed British mountaineer George Sutton. An early – 1952 or 1953 – 15j lever escapement Smiths watch in a chromed 33.5 mm second-execution Dennison “Aquatite” water-resisting case, featuring correct second-type slotted dust-cover to permit visual inspection of the movement. The case shows significant wear consistent with the long-term rugged use to which this timepiece was subjected by one of Britain’s most famous mountaineers. Original factory 18mm strap appears to be present. This watch was supplied directly by the manufacturer to the expedition in 1953, and worn by Sutton throughout his historic 1954-1955 expedition to South Georgia, including his historic assault on Mt. Paget. Sutton’s wristwatch, factory engraved with the expedition name and dates, is referenced at multiple points (see e.g. p. 165) in his book, Glacier Island (London, 1957), including among the official list of provisions donated to the expedition (Appendix II, p. 219). A rare artefact of Britain’s historic climbing legacy. Alongside the watch are previously unknown original expedition photographs and correspondence.

Image by Matthew Smith

Image by Matthew Smith

21. Hafis wristwatch worn by Murray Douglas as part of the New Zealand contingent of the Commonwealth Trans-Antarctic Expedition OF 1956-1957 led by Sir Edmund Hilary. Murray was an expert dog handler and mountain guide much favored by Hilary. According to one colorful account, “Douglas had originally been assigned as a member of the summer party only for the 1956-57 season. However, Hillary had seen the need for an extra person to help out with the dogs and decided that Douglas should remain for the coming year. Hillary had not gained Ross Sea Committee approval for this change and towards the end of the summer season, rather than make a formal request, he decided to send Douglas on an extended sledging journey to ensure that Endeavour would have sailed north by the time he returned to Scott Base. The RSC were not amused calling Hillary’s gambit “a somewhat high-handed action.” With no practical alternative, the RSC was forced to acquiesce and allow Douglas to remain.” Mount Douglas (1750m) on the Fry Glacier is named for Murray Douglas.

Image by Matthew Smith

Image by Matthew Smith

22. Extremely Early Rolex Calendar/Centre Seconds Officer’s Watch. 1913 Rolex “trench” style watch, silver case with Birmingham hallmarks, 15j lever escapement movement, unadjusted, with original central (sweep) seconds and retrograde date complication. Movement, case and high-fired original enamel dial all signed Rolex (with dial signature applied before firing). Blued steel hands with rose gold original onion crown. Wristwatches with date indication and a sweep second hand became standard in the watch industry by the 1940s. In 1913, however, it was quite rare to find a sweep second wristwatch of any kind—most displayed the seconds in a small, inset subsidiary dial. It is all but unheard of to find a sweep second watch combined with a date indicator from that period. Indeed, this wristwatch is one of the earliest known embodiments of these two soon-to-be ubiquitous features—and it is almost certainly the first with a retrograde indicator (i.e. the date indicator runs counter-clockwise whilst all of the other hands run clockwise). This is a rare and important wristwatch that prefigured what would become the world’s most ubiquitous wristwatch format.

Image by Matthew Smith

Image by Matthew Smith

23. LeCoultre Reverso wristwatch that belonged to Robert Vernon Hebert Percy, “the last of the great English eccentrics,” and late master of Faringdon House near Oxford.  A fine and rare stainless steel Reverso wristwatch with black dial, model reference 201, movement no. 12'810, case no. 9454, manufactured in 1932.  The watch is fitted with a caliber 410 nickel-finished lever movement, 15 jewels. The dial shows baton numerals, subsidiary seconds, outer railway minute divisions, rectangular case, striped ends, all pivoting within the rectangular stainless-steel case, 23 mm wide and 38.5 mm long. Likely presented to Heber-Percy on his 21st birthday.  The youngest of four sons of Algernon Heber-Percy, of Hodnet Hall, Shropshire, Robert pursued the traditional sports of the country gentleman. From a storied military family, Heber-Percy worked as a spy for the British in the Balkans and Arabia during WW2. As his obituary in the Guardian noted, Heber-Percy, known for much of his life as "the Mad Boy," was "an English eccentric in the grand tradition.” He moved into Fargingdon house in the 1930s with his lifelong companion Lord Berners. The pair were notorious for their eccentricity, dyeing pigeons vibrant colors and inviting Penelope Betjeman's horse, Moti, into the house for tea. More significantly, Heber-Percy and Berners hosted the arguably most important literary salon of the 20th century. Among their close friends were Andre Gide, John Betjeman, John Mortimer, Max Beerbohm, Gertrude Stein, Alice Toklas, Baron Rose and William Plomer. Lord Berners died in 1950, and Heber-Percy inherited Faringdon House, in which he lived until his death in 1987. The Reverso, reflecting as it does the ethos of an active life (the swivel case designed to protect the crystal from the rough-and-tumble of the polo pitch) and a truly iconoclastic design sense, was a fitting watch for the young Heber-Percy. As wristwatches became ubiquitous accessories for young, active men in the years following WW1, watch companies marketed numerous designs that incorporated “armored” dials. Apart from the Reverso—the only design that has proved to have enduring appeal and which is still in active production today—Hamilton produced the clamshell “Flintridge” model and Gruen sold the very similar “Guardsman.”

24. A cylinder pocket watch movement, Thomas Mudge & William Dutton, London, c.1765, in later 18K rose gold case, white enamel dial with Roman numerals, signed and numbered gilt fusée movement with large cylinder escape wheel and square baluster pillars, pierced, chased and engraved balance cock with diamond endstone, signed gilt dust cover, diameter c.50mm.  Thomas Mudge is arguably not only the most important horological inventor in history, but also one of the most important engineering innovators of all time – at least if his contributions are gauged by their impact on people’s daily lives.  250 years ago, Mudge’s created one of mankind’s most important and enduring engineering achievements: the lever escapement.  This magical device is found in almost every mechanical wristwatch ever manufactured since – literally billions of watches.  It was the lever escapement that made accurate portable time – watches that could be worn or carried – possible.  The kinetic sculpture that accompanies this exhibition recreates this achievement.